Michelle and I agreed that this should be the title of the next blog since every room we go into has a different system for turning on the lights and every bathroom a different way of flushing the toilet...hence our new designation of M.L.L. Master of Lights and Loos.
We are back in Prague now and again I am not sure how long I can get away with using this computer so I'll just make a start and carry on whenever I can.
Some general comments....Great coffee in the Czech Republic....hate the fact that a lot of people smoke in restaurants...hotels have been great especially the one here in Prague which is close to everything and was something like $85 a night and includes a giant breakfast which is one of our two meals a day.
In Prague people speak English but in Karlovy Vary where we have just been they only spoke German and Russian. Never thought I would go to the Czech Republic to improve my German but that is in fact what happened. Very few English speaking people in Karlovy Vary. Lots of Russians, a very rich crowd, and Asians especially Koreans.
Ok...Karlovy Vary....WOW!!!
We took the train there in favour of the bus and enjoyed it very much. Nothing really out of the ordinary about it except that we were surprised to see row upon row of solar panels. We both like the train and you can move around more easily and don't have to be strapped in. The journey took us 3 hours and we saw some nice country on the way.
The hotel in KV wasn't as big or classy as the one in Prague but our room was about the same price and perfectly adequate. KV is a smaller place and again we were right near the centre. My friend and distant relative Carol was waiting for us at the hotel and no sooner had we arrived and dropped our stuff than she had us on the bus going across the river to my mother's old home town. It used to be called Fishern (in German) but is now called Rybare (which apparently means something to do with fish as well). I had taken along a photograph taken in 1991, the last time anyone had photographed the house that once was my grandparents business and home. Neither Carol nor I knew where it was on a long street originally called Hauptstrasse (Main street) and now called something else. Of course once the German speaking population were driven out of this area all names were switched to Czech names and in many cases, because the place was occupied by the Communists, to names of communist sympathisers. Anyway a man in the street saw us looking at the photo and then looking at the house fronts and he beckoned me over to see if he could help. He wasn't totally sure so he waved to his buddy across the road who took it into a bar and came out moments later and told us where to look. Sure enough we found it, sadly not in very good shape but we'll post a picture here once we can upload the pictures.
Building In Fishern Once Owned by the Simon Family
Carol's partner wanted to visit a local shop so Michelle and Carol and I stood outside the shop, which unfortunately was closed, and talked about my mum and my grandparents. If anyone thought this was going to be an emotional moment, it turned out not to be.
For those of you who have never heard of Karlovy Vary, formerly called Karlsbad yes, where the lager comes from, this is a spa town. The locals have directed the very hot and mineralized water to various taps throughout the town and people come here to drink the water.
Ornate Fountain in Karlovy Vary
Fountain in Karlovy Vary
Before WWII this was a very fashionable place and there are many many wonderful old houses and many hotels which cater just to this. Since the end of communism in the Czech Republic they have been renovating the old places to their original architecture and painted them up and the place is absolutely incredible. They river runs through the town and they have closed the roads on either side of the river and paved them over.
Walking Beside the River in Karlovy Vary
So....miles and miles of these gorgeous old houses with amazing carved decoration. Paved walkways for easy walking and lots of little touristy outlets with everything from Czech crystal, to scarves, and specialty foods AND, the most important thing, little cups with spouts so that people can fill the cup with the spa water and then walk along sipping it. I thought it extremely funny to see people walking along with, in one hand the spa water which is supposed to make them more healthy, and in the other hand a sobrani!!! People here smoke a lot! There are also many signs for the WC for obvious reasons.
Looking Down the River and Along the Main Street
Looking Down on the Statue calling for Peace Between Religions
On the first evening Carol took us to this walking area and we had our first look before dinner. On the second day she lead us on a tour of places where apparently my relatives had once lived and/or places where my mother had once danced as a teenager. Some of the hotels are still called by the same names and anyone who ever chatted to my mother about her childhood would have heard about the tea dances she went to. Also these hotels were once my grandparents' customers as they had a wholesale and retail store selling, amongst other things, china and glass to the many hotels.
Richmond Hotel
Grand Pupp Hotel
Imperial Hotel
(This one is perched on the top of a hill and looks out over the city)
This blog cannot do justice to these hotels until we have the photos up. The hotels are absolutely enormous, and often perched up on the hillside overlooking the town. In one case we rode a cable car up to the hotel, had a coffee and rode down again. Of course everything you do here costs you money including going to the bathroom which costs about $0.60 CAN. That can get expensive when you stop several times a day for coffee!! We walked until we thought our feet were going to drop off and both nights we were happy to stop for dinner and eat authentic Czech cuisine.
Michelle and I took the train back to Prague on Sunday arriving in time to go for an evening stroll...or should I say we both limped very slowly to see the astrological clock, one of the sights for which Prague is famous.
Today we took the tram to the top of the hill overlooking Prague and walked back down, taking in sights of the Castle and it's surrounding buildings with a walk over the very famous Prague bridge. Unfortunately our feet have got the better of us so we couldn't do this all justice but we did manage to walk very slowly and see most of it.
Tomorrow we are flying back to London and the following day will rent a car and head out of town. If we get a chance, Michelle will add some photos to the last two blogs...but no promises.
A car, a car. My kingdom for a car!
